In fashion, less is more… except for when more is more. Minimalism and maximalism exist in a constant battle in the world of design, cycling in and out of popularity. In the past few years, maximalism is the reigning aesthetic, but minimalism still persists in street style and indie brands. So what pushes the zeitgeist towards one extreme or another?
The 90s saw the rise of the minimalist greats: Calvin Klein, Max Mara, and Jill Sanders led the pack. The fashion world had just finished up with neon sweaters and shoulderpads, and so for many fatigued fashionistas, minimalism was a breath of fresh air. Minimalist clothing allowed the body to shine through instead of obscuring it under layers of cloth and sequins.
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| Calvin Klein Spring 1995 |
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| Christina Aguilera at the 2000s Grammys |
But by Y2K, it seems, that breath of fresh air had grown stale. The early 2000s are remembered for sequins, metallics, PVC, and glittery lip gloss. As the years progressed, phones morphed into sleek obsidian tablets. Minimalism swang back into fashion again, to complement the changing look of our tech.
In 2015, Alessandro Michele took the reigns as Gucci’s creative director. Michele debuted his new vision in the Fall/Winter 2015 show, which showcased layers upon layers of prints, metallics, knits, and furs. Before Michele, the cult brand Meadham Kirchhoff gained a name for maxing out maximalism. From 2011 to 2015, Meadham Kirchhoff decked out their runways in rainbow balloons, tinsel, and rainbow disco lights, sending down models in technicolor explosions of sequins, fur, and glittering facepaint. Maximalist nonagenarian Iris Apfel became an accidental fashion icon, known for her enormous bangles and wacky layered prints.
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| Gucci S/S 2016 |
So what drives this cycle of minimalism and maximalism? The aesthetics reflect different values, and their waxing and waning popularity largely depends upon which values are central to our culture at the time. Minimalism focuses on reducing waste, rejecting commercialism, embracing simplicity, and above all else: exceptionally high quality. The 90s, sobered by the AIDs epidemic and the end of the Cold War, took a more cautious approach to fashion than the previous decade. The later 2000s returned to minimalism after Apple had established that the aesthetic of progress was sleek, simple, and precise. In the 2010s, online fashion communities rejected flashy materialism and instead chose to appreciate the elegance of a well-worn t-shirt and perfectly fitted jeans.
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| Minimalist fashion blogger Cali Vintage |
Maximalism, on the other hand, values diversity, eclecticism, experimenting, and risk-taking. The 80s were a rebellious decade, with queer activism, the AIDs crisis, second wave feminism, and more sending the status quo into a frenzy. Maximalism naturally fit perfectly with that defiant spirit. The early 2000s were saturated with excitement at the arrival of a new millennium, life-changing new technologies, and the endless possibilities of futurism. And the past several years have been one of the most turbulent and chaotic periods in America, and around the globe, since the Civil War. The fight against xenophobia, racism, homophobia, and sexism requires a mind that is open to hearing every side of every story. Communities are now more diverse and accepting than ever. And our desire to know and support others has come across in the maximalist clothing on today’s racks and runways. From Gucci to Dolce & Gabbana to the hundreds of cult brands that have flourished on Instagram, you can find hints of Latinx embroidery, Indian jewelry, east Asian fabrics, African prints, glam drag, butch fashion, and so much more. The current wave of maximalism is about pulling not just from all over your closet, but from all over the world. In addition, maximalism is the solution to minimalism’s elitist problem; not everyone can afford a perfectly curated capsule wardrobe, but a single trip to the thrift store can pull together a fantastic maximalist outfit. Anything can become part of an ensemble; thrift store jewels, hand-me-down shirts, and fabric patches from the scrap bin are all fair game.
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| Left to right: Manish Arora, Dolce & Gabbana, Meadham Kirchhoff (Yes, I will take every opportunity to talk about MK, they are my ultimate faves) |
Minimalism and maximalism will likely always remain in a cycle together, if the history of the runway is any clue. It’s hard to tell where the fashion world is headed in our unstable future. The climate crisis might invite minimalism, which aims to reduce production of clothing, or maximalism, which follows the Reduce, Reuse, Recycle code to a T. Multiculturalism might continue the diversification of fashion, or fear of difference might force a minimalist homogenization of the fashion world. Or it’s possible they’ll both exist together, equally – even within the same closet. Traditionally, each aesthetic has required a certain level of commitment. But the internet has changed the fashion world forever, and all bets are off. So how should we prepare for the upcoming trends? My advice is this: hoard minimalist clothing and start a maximalist capsule closet. Let’s have our cake and eat it, too.
This article was originally published in MODA Magazine. Read the full issue here.
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